The Tarka Trail is a spectacular 46 mile reclaimed railway line that has been developed for cyclists and walkers and has now been in open for recreational use for 20 years. The trail first came to my attention approximately one year ago whilst watching James May's "Toy Stories" where he successfully reconnected the railway line between Barnstaple and Bidaford with a model railway stretching around 11 miles.
I rode the trail over two days due to only arriving at the trail head late one afternoon. It would easily be ridden by moderately fit cyclists in a day, there is barely and incline over its duration.
Early on day two I stumbled across the Yarde Orchard. Stumbled across probably isn't the correct wording as I had been advised to look out for it but I had no idea what to expect.
The Yarde Orchard is a unique cafe and accommodation business located on the trail. I was lucky enough to meet David the owner, and whilst I had a coffee and a very tasty slice he gratefully answered a bunch of my questions.
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| Isle of Skye |
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| Isle of Skye |
Leaving Bude on a relatively fine day, I crisscrossed the countryside leaving the fabulous Cornwall behind me and reentering Devon for about the third and final time for this trip. The plan was a leisurely 45 mile ride to the head of the Tarka Trail and from there I would cycle north and look for a suitable camping spot. Around 40 miles into my ride I rounded a corner and ran in two sensational people in John and Mary who were cycling old Raleigh bicycles to a vintage machinery and vehicle show. John's bike dated back to the early 50's if I remember correctly and was complete with rod operated brakes. He said it weighed about the same as a Ford Festiva, looking at the bikes build, I believe him.
After chatting beside the road for what could have been 20 or more minutes, John and Mary gave me directions to the show and an open invitation to join them in the beer tent if I was to attend. Well, I didn't need any further encouragement and after bidding farewell I shot off to find the start of the trail, whilst my new found friends in cycling took a locals shortcut direct to the show.
I have a bad habit of farewelling complete strangers with statements like "Catch you later" and "See you next time". I know I'm not the only person in the world to use these phrases, but of late it really seams strange saying these pointless words to a complete stranger knowing that in as little as one hour I'll be 20 miles further down the road let alone where I'll be tomorrow or the next day.
Well last week I was proved wrong. Whilst in Bude on a sunny, but bitterly cold Saturday. I was exploring the beach and cliff top when I stumbled upon three climbers who were just completing a 40 meter climb to the base of the town folly. I was talking to the female of the group (Sorry, I know you're reading this but I didn't get your name) whilst the guys were finishing the climb and packing ropes and harness. After a brief chat I bid them farewell with one of the two classic phrases above and then chastised my self for doing so as I walked away.
So Sunday arrives and I start heading east on a 50 mile ride to pick up the beginning of the Tarka Trail. I stop at an intersection some 20 miles into my ride and who should I stop to give way to at the intersection, my climbing buddies who spotted me in the traffic and drove past waving madly to attract my attention.
I guess I shouldn't be so harsh on myself... As they say, "It's a small world after all"
You remember what Cycle Touring is all about.
Or should that read Portwenn?
Port Isaac is a quaint fishing village made extremely popular by the hit television series, Doc Martin. Walking around Port Isaac you cannot help but feel as if you're on a television set. The village is picture perfect and at any moment you almost expect the delightful Doc to appear from one of the many landmarks dotted around the harbour and hurl somewhat warranted abuse at his next patient.
Since arriving in Portwenn I've strolled past Louisa's house, eaten ice-cream from the chemist, looked over Burt and Al's restaurant, had a pint and a meal on the back verandah of the pub and tried to book in for a consultation with the friendly Doc only to find the surgery to be a private residence.
So, "Does anybody here have a genuine medical complaint?"
