Arthurs Pass

After 10 continuous days of rain in the lead up to Arthurs Pass it was evident that I was not about to see the iconic pass on a fine summers day. Alas, no amount of cold, wet or windy conditions could take away from this mammoth climb. 

Arthurs Pass at 960 metres sits some 120 metres lower than the Crown Range road but don't be fooled, although lower and shorter, Arthurs Pass, from the Western approach is most definitely the most gruelling climb on New Zealands South Island. 

Reaching the base of the climb I had already cycled 50 kilometres in cold and wet conditions so I was a little apprehensive as to how my body would hold out over the 11 kilometre climb once the gradient got serious. Food and more food was the key, stopping at Jacksons for a hot meal and drink thawed me out and put a little fuel in the tank for the rapidly approaching climb. A tourist train leaves Greymouth for Christchurch daily travelling via the pass and would have cost me around $100, I think I'd spent the equivalent on food by lunch....

Although I had been slowly climbing from sea level all day the real climb started gradually after Otira and I was instantly enveloped by nature at its best. Stunning waterfalls, raging streams and beautiful bird song brought my senses alive. The climb felt easy at this point, I remember thinking at the time how good is this, and just then I rounder a corner and saw the almost vertical road ahead, Nooooooo...

Up on the pedals and with all the strength I could muster I reached a section of roadwork where I was stopped by the traffic controller. He watched me approach, stop, find my balance whilst squeezing the breaks firmly and gasp for breath than proceed to say, "You'll be right mate, just stay to the left" Restarting on such an incline on a loaded touring bike is difficult so I was a little pissed that he stopped me for all of 2 seconds.

Underway again I passed under a large waterfall that is bridged over the climb and reached the first lookout and a bunch of friendly Kia's that appeared to like to look of my bike tyres. Stopping only for a photograph I moved onward and upward to the incredible Otira Viaduct where the road levelled out just slightly and long enough to climb in the saddle for a kilometre or two before the final short but steep push to the summit. 

Stopping at the summit for a quick photograph and to add a layer of clothing for the descent into Arthurs Pass village I quickly become cold as the air temperature was in low single digits. Elated I moved on to a hot shower, a resteraunt dinner, pint or two of ale and a warm bed at Arthurs Lodge. It proved to be a good decision as a large dump of snow arrived overnight that may have made things a little chilly in the tent.

Another New Zealand pass conquored and my final climb for this chapter of my trip. Bring on Europe.